Counter flashing....

I got a flashing job to do and the customer wants me to run the counter flashing like what I call a "Band-Aid".

It's a 4/12 roof......at most, that runs into a brick wall. The counter flashing now is stepped and in mortar joint but is cheap aluminum t>>>

Here is a video showing excellent craftsmanship. The fabrication and installation of the copper chimney flashings are spot on. Check it out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bONgeVLqt4

Hay John , do you charge by the foot, or do it by the job when pricing. For me .....New-$15@ Ft......Tearout and replace $30 @ Ft. This is with Aluminum Trim Coil. When using copper, which I use very little of , I double the price ,if not more.>>>

that there copper must of cost a pretty pennie, the only time i've ever used copper for counter flasing is with ceader shake, that's it the rest get metal.3 1/2" on the deck and 6" up the wall. Anyways if the customer wants to pay for copper so be it.>>>

Just make a bend @ the top around 3/8" at a 45 degree then rund a bead of chalking, and then Bobs your uncle.>>>

That is what I use, we call them "masonry Anchors". Don't us them in my counter flashing though. Most of the time I use a 24ga. one piece reglet metal, painted enamble. I go with the color black as my standard color. My favorite caulk is "Rainbust>>>

These?>>>

We have called them "thunder nails" on occasion too. A stainless steel drive pin that drives into a lead insert. The insert is a 1/4 inch and the drive pin expands it as it goes in and holds the insert into the hole. Very strong and quick.>>>

TRG, Thanks for putting up with my questions. Where do you guys get 1/8 x 1" lead molys? I know this is gonna sound bad.....but I have never heard of a lead moly. Do they call them anything else? How do they install....do you drill then hammer them into>>>

Merry Xmas Randy. well when it comes to flasing, it's all cosmetic, when it's brick steped it looks better that's for sure.You'll save yourself alot of timie if you could just slap it in, if you have a pair of thoughs, just give it a 45 degee bend at>>>

TRG....I like how that copper looks! I do have a question for you all though. On your chimney I noticed you didnt have to put fasteners down low, that looks nice. But in my application, I am going to be running 45' up a wall and I need to fasten my cou>>>

That flashing looks great but if you really want it to look good for life use dark bronze color caulk. the copper will turn that color in a few months and it will blend perfect>>>

If you cut into the mortar joint or a straight line right up the roof, it only has to be about a thick saw blade wide. Maybe a 1/4 inch total width. When you bend the metal to insert into that cut line, you bend a 90 degree bend and then bend the back s>>>

Lead anchor drive pins,use them all the time, fast and easy secure finish!>>>

I use masonary nails to attach c.f. to the riglet. I like the round ones but sometimes the wedges work well too. you can also make your own wedges out of scrap pieces of aluminum. the inspectors around here like to see 8" minimum between the c.f. and>>>

Jedd, That is similar to how I have done it before, minus the rolled lead plugs. Where do you guys get rolled lead plugs?

I seen a reglet system that lets me cut a groove, install my c/f then use what it called an EPDM plug. I liked how that looked, oth>>>