Hi everyone,
I’m working on a project involving a concrete roof deck, and I’m running into some concerns regarding moisture control and insulation. The deck itself is solid, but there’s been a history of moisture issues in the building, and I want to make sure I approach this correctly to avoid future problems.
Here’s the situation: The previous roofing system had signs of trapped moisture, and while the interior damage wasn’t severe, it’s clear that something wasn’t working as intended. I’m considering my options when it comes to vapor barriers, insulation placement, and the best type of roofing system for this type of structure. I know that concrete holds moisture differently than other substrates, so I want to be sure I’m not creating a situation where condensation or thermal bridging becomes a bigger issue down the line.
Has anyone here worked with roofing over concrete decks before? What’s the best way to prevent long-term moisture problems? Should I be looking at specific types of insulation or vapor barriers to handle this better? Also, I’ve heard mixed opinions about fully adhered vs. mechanically fastened systems for concrete—any recommendations on what works best?
Moisture testing is step one
The most reliable method to assess moisture in an existing concrete roof deck is in-situ relative humidity (RH) testing, as defined in ASTM F2170. This process involves drilling test holes into the concrete — typically to 40% of the slab's depth — then inserting calibrated humidity probes to measure the internal relative humidity within the slab.
This method is far more accurate than surface-based moisture meters, especially for roofing applications, because it captures moisture levels below the surface, where vapor can continue migrating for weeks or months. A reading of 75% RH or lower is generally acceptable for roofing installations, unless the manufacturer has provided specific alternate requirements.
According to industry best practices, such as those recommended by Wagner Meters, you should perform at least three RH tests for the first 1,000 square feet, plus one additional test for every subsequent 1,000 square feet. This ensures that your readings reflect the moisture profile across different deck sections, which may vary due to sunlight exposure, drainage conditions or previous repairs.
Proper RH testing upfront eliminates guesswork and reduces the risk of adhesive failure, blistering and long-term moisture entrapment beneath your roofing system.
Use a vapor retarder — strategically
A vapor retarder is often essential for concrete decks, especially in warm, humid climates or when the interior is climate-controlled. However, it must be installed correctly:
That said, don't install a vapor barrier unless you're 100% certain it's needed — in the wrong climate or application, it can create a condensation trap. Climate zone, building use (e.g., high humidity interiors like a gym or pool), and dew point calculations should guide this decision.
Insulation: Go continuous and moisture-resistant
For insulation, close-cell polyisocyanurate boards with glass facers or extruded polystyrene (XPS) offer good moisture resistance. Avoid materials like expanded polystyrene (EPS) unless you use venting strategies or a hybrid system.
Roofing system: Fully adhered versus mechanically fastened
Both can work over concrete, but here's the breakdown:
Recommendation: Go with a fully adhered single-ply (TPO or PVC), or consider a hybrid or two-ply modified bitumen system if redundancy is a priority.
Additional best practices
Slope the deck (minimum 1/4" per foot) or use tapered insulation to promote drainage. Ponding water over concrete exacerbates moisture intrusion and the breakdown of membrane adhesion. Use venting strategies only if moisture is present and full removal isn't feasible, but this is less common today due to system advancements. Ensure compatible adhesives and primers are used with concrete. Surface prep (clean, dry, smooth) is critical for adhesion.
Summary of recommendations