valley detail

One questiom Max. When in doubt about the slope, I take a bucket of water and pour it down the roof to see what the true flow is. Did you do that?

Nice photos frank,

I would agree with you, maybe bring the water check up to the height of the lath on the low slope with a small return?

That should prevent any over run in very heavy rain, I like the idea of one side closed to the rib in the valley only future problem might be the valley silting up on the closed side.

Pegards,

Peter.

Frank, those are great pics and I use the same detail on same type situations. But look again, this is entirely different. In none of ur pics is the water flow away from the valley. Maybe over it. Tom same thing, Im not worried in the least about dissimaliar pitches, its the fact that I dont want any water to run under the tile away from the valley. Woody, It is on the back side and I have plenty of wakaflex. Hell I could double it ifin I wanted to lol. Those cuts are my concern as well. But looks like you have a good grasp of what I am working with. Tks for all the replies and suggestions. Will be next week till I get to that side so plenty of time to chew on it.

Here's a view from the ground.

Here's one that the slaters closed off the 6/12 side by running the slate over to the V.

Another view. It went from an open channel to a closed channel.

Go old school. Channeled valleys have been around for centuries for those occasions and before felt was known. Of course, use the necessary ribs for the tile too. A slight modification of the normal channeled valley.

Here's a cross view. As you can see, it's only one extra bend. In your case, the steep side will need a mild bend to kick the bottom edge of the tile up some.

I don't know either.....

As for the valley detail; 2 - pc flashing; Lower pc; If you went with a 24" S.O.; 10" w/1" turn-up/water rail & mid-point diverter, at the lower pitch/pan side, x 13" up steeper slope. Top pc; I would think, the Waka-flex, would be better than lead.

That looks like a pretty good pitch, so I would think step-flashing would work just fine, as well.

Tom, when I click on the EmailMe button, popup says Could not perform this operation because the default mail client is not properly installed. Dont really know what the heck that means. Maybe it will work on ur end.

Yes I will do. Talked to rep and he was talking some kinda of ridge detail, did not follow that at all. I suggested two dif methods. See if you agree with either or neither. 1. Install step valley with 5" of metal lapped over each indiviual coarse of tiles,on the left/lower pitch side of the valley, and extend 10" or more on the right/ higher pitch side of the valley. Run left side all the way up followed by the right hand side overlapping as a standard valley. He did not like that. Said step flashing does not go well with tile. I kinda agree.

2. Install standard valley metal valley without the W. Install tile on the left side all the way up, extending over the V and butting into the right side. Use their wa-ka-flex product which is a flexable, moldable, flashing with a peel and stick base. Seal to tiles 2" out of valley all the way to the top. Install right side , overlapping tile onto left side, covering most of the wa-ka-flex. He approved this.

That's what I figured you had...Dissimilar pitches....Done many-many of those.....It's a hybrid, (so-to-speak),almost a side-wall situation....You'll need to shop-fab, or hav a sht mtl shop bend something up for you. Email me directly and I can send you a detail

Yes, I have been talking to the rep but he hasnt seen the pics or the job , so no help from him yet so I thought I would put it out there. Tks for the reply rocky, u def know tile. Here is the pic.

Looks like you're having a conversation with someone else already, the way that is worded

Don't really understand the question, Pictures would help. 3 vee valley is code here for tile work, but sometimes you have to use best judgement and use whats best for the situation.