TPO ID Question

So I'm messing around with TPO for the first time here. I bought these scraps from a guy on craigslist, which he knew nothing about. His cousin installed it. It appears to be self adhered. Can I just peel that film and weld it to itself anywhere? Is this stuff even weldable at all? It is smooth backed.

Thanks for the replies, I somehow missed them. Anyways I've learned a lot but I've got some questions about replacing the scuppers on this gymnasium. It was just the scuppers leaking, but the windstorm just pulled the membrane away from the wall and now it's a terrible leak.

This stuff isn't nailed at all, and it was adhered w/ asphalt from the looks of it. I am nervous about replacing part of it because I don't know what the outcome would be if I couldn't weld to it. It's a fleeceback membrane, so if I can't weld to the top what would happen?

I've never had a problem welding other PVC's to Durolast, unless the DL was old, at which point it's just too dried out to weld.

We make all of our aged membrane repairs to the underside of the membrane, regardless of type, because the weld is better and material is more virgin. To hell with backwater seams, if the weld is right the seam will hold.

Fibertite, yeah, that's a tough one, because Fibertite, while it actually has PVC in it, contains over 50% KEE (Ketone Ethyl Ester.. or Ester Ethylene something like that), so it technically isn't even a PVC membrane.

TPO pretty much welds to any TPO, but aged TPO can be impossible to weld, even on the bottom.

As for what John mentioned about one of my posts, I think it was on the NRG forum, but in short, the NRCA had a seminar at the IRE this year, that in my own liberal paraphrase said "Mike was right, TPO sucks". LOL In seriousness, it touched on the failures of TPO under heavy UV load, so if you make sure that the roof has plenty of trees, shade, sunscreen or other means of keeping the sun off it, it might last a while.

roof_dawg Said: So I looked at a roof that I used to turn down today. Its a gymnasium that has TPO or PVC on it. It seems like it may be softer than the TPO Ive used. It is fleece backed. Is this likely PVC?

Its leaking at two scuppers, but I found that the membrane is barely covered by the counterflashing, and had no termination bar. I could pull it back a few inches from the wall. Im going to install a t-bar in that area, because in other areas the membrane goes up higher. Anyways, when I have to redo the scuppers or patch this roof, how would I know what type of membrane to use? If I get a different brand, is it going to be compatible?

So I looked at a roof that I used to turn down today. It's a gymnasium that has TPO or PVC on it. It seems like it may be softer than the TPO I've used. It is fleece backed. Is this likely PVC?

It's leaking at two scuppers, but I found that the membrane is barely covered by the counterflashing, and had no termination bar. I could pull it back a few inches from the wall. I'm going to install a t-bar in that area, because in other areas the membrane goes up higher. Anyways, when I have to redo the scuppers or patch this roof, how would I know what type of membrane to use? If I get a different brand, is it going to be compatible?

I'd like to know any drawbacks, as I'm just now starting with it. Naturally PVC is better, but is price the only drawback? Difficulty of install seems it may be tougher.

Thanks a bunch. I'm feeling pretty confident, except I had no time to practice my welds this week - 10-12 hour days. I bought "membrane cleaner" from the local hardware store, I assumed it would work. They know absolutely nothing of TPO.

I'm using these scraps for a little 8sq perfect practice job, and I'm helping the guy out on the price since it's my first and we kind of know him. I measured a 65sq sweetheart that I expect to get and a 40sq this week. I've got to figure out a price to put on them this weekend...I know it's going to be make my mod. bit bid look more attractive hah. Neither of these jobs have scuppers, they drain to a side w/o a parapet wall.

GAF freedom tpo is self adhered. your'e right i pulled out a field guide i have from 2008 there is very little info on freedom tpo. hopefully thats not what you're installing. cuz it's a little different from smooth back more similar to fleece backed tpo specs. here's a couple more things of what i do know about tpo. any angle change must be terminated, i.e walls, perimeters, and penetrations. using screws/ concrete anchors and plates or t- bar. i like plates. either terminated into the flat or turn up the material 3" and term. that way. i like to turn it up , but depends on the situation, both are acceptble. on corners unlike mod. bit dont make any cuts pig ear material. use accesories availabe from manufacturer will save you time and headaches. is this fully adhered or mech. attached install? if mech. attached you will need spiked plates for attaching field sheets. think of seams as you'd do on mod. bit. leave 6" with no glue to come back and weld seam. make sure its nice and clean especially if is a tear off. 409 cleaner and xylene work well for cleaning. how is this roof drained? does it have scuppers,drains, or gutters? may need to consider a tapered iso system as well. hopefully i havent confused you more than help you, lol. any more questions i'd happy to help. you can email me and we can go that route or i'll shoot you my #. good luck, jj. p.s. from what ive seen on other posts here mike h. is supposed to be an expert in tpo. maybe he'd help you out?

I did see your advice on that other post, thank you. I just cut two pieces of the smallest scrap to practice. I thought you could weld anywhere. I will be using GAF everguard, so I suppose I could install this just like Freedom? They have sent me a huge TPO/PVC book, but it didn't cover s/a. I also worried that this may be that Weatherbond non-weld material.

Never done any EPDM, just mod. bitumen. I've been a shingle roofer since I was 14, excluding 5 years I took off for college. I've been researching the crap out of membrane roofing and there is quite a bit to it when you consider all the different substrates the books talk about but I think I'm catching on finally. The youtube videos have helped out.

there are s/a tpo's. if it has a plastic release paper like ice and water it's self adhering. s/a costs more than smooth back. on s/a full sheet there'll be a 6" seam (no adhesive) where you weld seams. then on end laps and peaks where you have lap changes. you have to stip in seams where seams are adhesive to adhesive min. of 8". so i'd go with smooth back tpo just leave min. 6" on any seam with no glue to weld seams, if youve done epdm it's similiar specs.what manufacturer are you using? i'm sure they'd give you a field guide. also try manufacturer websites for info, and youtube has alot of videos also. careful there are quite a few idiots posting on youtube, but there are some good ones also. oh, p.s if you are welding those scraps and not getting it to weld good or "stick". you could have some pvc material and some tpo material they are not compatible materials.i also posted some tips on my so far so good post did you see them?