How do I install rubber roofing?

Hi,

I'm a homeowner and decided to install my own rubber roof (the old one is leaking). I do most of my own stuff and it seems to be a pretty simple job because the roof is only 14'x16', no vent pipes, skylights, etc. I searched the web, but I couldn't find a step by step on how to install epdm. Here's the supplies I got based on what the sales guy from ABC SUpply told me what I needed:

- Mulehide EPDM 060 10' x 50' Black - Mulehide 10' all purpose bar (qty 5) - Mulehide in-seam tape 3" x 25' - Mulehide water base bond adh (5 gal.) - Atlas 1.0" ISO ACFOAM II 4'x8' (qty 6) - Mulehide water cut-off mastic 11oz (qty 2) - 1 box of 2 1/4" screws (100ct) - 1 box of 3" plate galvalume (100ct)

I know I probably have a bit more material than I need. But I figured I'd overkill...didn't want to skimp on it and run short. I also tried to get the thicker epdm and better insulation board.

Can anyone provide me with a link or some instructions on how to install. Maybe even some do's and don'ts? For example, I'm not sure how much you screw down the fastening plates without damaging the 1" foam boards?

Thanks, Marc

I think your going to be short on the 4x8 iso... you need 8 pieces and 128 fasteners.

also, you might want to come up under the shingle roof more than10 inches, I would consider removing 6 rows and then going up 24 inches above that, then reshingling back 4 courses, leaving some rubber exposed on the slope.

term bar is an ugly option compared to a well designed edge metal,

just saving you a trip during the middle of the job....

your welcome

that is ONE of the problems with ABC, luckily here we have at least 2 other suppliers where I can get a cut .060 piece-and one of them ALSO sells the latex adhesive in an optional 1 gallon pail

which is nice- more expensive/gallon- but if you use it infrequently and have a small job where you don't want 3 left over gallons going hard on ya- it's nice. stephen

2 things I notice

1)- I would NOT have bought the 10x50 roll requiring a field splice. Locally----- I would have bought a 20x20 piece cut off a 20x50 roll from my supplier- slightly more/sq. ft. cost for material purchased- but lower cost over all AND most importantly NO splice required- can be a truly seamless installation

2)- the water based adhesive- I have used the product from mulehide as Old School described- there is quite a "fudge factor" built into the product making it handy for a solo install- but I notice if it's warm outside- that wet install method leads to some issues with Bubbles forming under the membranev that never seem to properly adhere-and because the cure rate is so slow I have had a few cases where a diagonal wrinkle formed running across the roof between half the rubber in the shade of the building-and half out in the sun.

I now use Firestones'latex product- which gives me a slight "fudge factor" when positioning the membrane- but once broomed or rolled in gives me virtually no wrinkiles/bubbles as it installs more like a contact cement-still fairly friendly for solo install- but better final product. stephen

ok, thanks guys. This helps quite a bit. Glad I found this forum. :)

there are some videos on youtube or mulehide website.

Thank you for the quick reply. I do have one sloped roof that meets this. I just planned to glue the rubber under the bottom two rows of shingles. I also have two sides with vertical walls and the front is open where the gutter is. They had an all purpose bar on the front side only. The guy from ABC said they should have had them on the side walls as you mentioned. They didn't give me any primer or cleaner...I'll call the guy from ABC back and get that. For the brush that I use to get the sheet in place...any specific type of bristle? Or just a plain old roofing brush will do? The last thing, they didn't give me any screws with the bars...can I just grab some at Lowes/Home Depot that fit the hole? Oh, and should I caulk the screws on the termination bar after I fasten them down? Thanks for the help, I truly appreciate it.