Certainteed Flintlastic SA question......

As some of you know I am not much of a flat roof guy....but I have an easy 2/12 roof that is 40' wide x 25' from gutter board to where steep roof comes into home. The existing roof is Modified Bit with fiberboard under it, the fiberboard is attached to 5/8" Plywood. The wind got under the lip and just ripped the roof off.

My plan was to tear off MB and fiberboard down to plywood and install new plywood where needed, then new fiberboard, then I was gonna glue EPDM. I figured insurance would pay around $500-600 per square, max....total.

I talked to my supplier and they are trying to get me to use Flintlastic SA with a SA ply and apply directly to plywood, no fiberboard. They say material cost is only about 15% more than EPDM and that it is a lot easier to install.

My questions are.... Have any of you used this product?

And is $500-$600 per square on a 10 Square roof, material and labor, close to what insurance will allow per Xmate?

Any advice on flashing a chimney that comes up in the center of this roof?

Thanks!>>>

Thanks guys!

John, If I get this job I will give you a call for info!

Thanks again.>>>

^^ what they said^^ plus my humble suggestions:

Mfg. says 1/4" pitch necessary. I won't install this material on a roof under a 1/2" pitch-- It fails under ponds. I prefer 3-ply: SA nail base, SA mid-ply, SA Cap. With the runs cut & staggered 1/3 to avoid seam-over-seam. All must be compatible of course. Use only mod-bit adhesives. Adhesives for other asphalts have too much acid and will eat the mod-bit material over time. Do not use plasticaps anywhere. The mod-bit will eat the plastic over time.

* clean, clean, clean. Not one speck of dust or oily stain anywhere. Better to use all new metal. If you must use any old flashings, clean them spotless, then prime. * prime, prime, prime. Every place you are asking the material to grip metal. In addition, the primer MUST be completely dry. Like 24 hours. * Over time, this product tends to shrink more along the length than other materials and will actually "release" it's grip on the metal from the longitudinal strain and will even pull up drip edge at the ends of runs if it can't release. For this reason, order eave drip with 5" on the roof & nail the crap out of it. The extra mating surface area also gives the material more grip on the metal. * Don't let the material get wet. Don't let it get too hot either. In either case, the plastic release film does not come off smoothly. Keep the rolls as "round" as possible. No stacking on their sides and NO stepping on the rolls or dropping them. Keep it in the box stored on end until the day you use it. Do not accept any roll that arrives without a box. Unroll the material so it can "relax" in the sun. Then roll it up loosely before starting your runs. * It is not hard to apply-- it is easy and fast with a little practice. But it pays to have someone on hand who has experience with the release film. If the film does not come off smoothly, you will be miserable. LOL *roll, roll, roll. If left uncorrected, mole runs and voids will eventually lose their ability to adhere from contact with air in the void. Roll from the middle outwards. then roll it again. then roll it again then roll it again. then roll it again then roll it again. then roll it again. Before you go home that day, check it and roll it again if necessary.

Seams: This material will NOT adhere to granulated surfaces by itself. Use the "factory" edges wherever possible and cut the 45's just like the factory recommeneds. Hand roll with alot of pressure. If you must lap over granulated, the factory recommends a "hot roller" to "sink" the granulate into the surface before mating (do not torch LOL). If that is not possible, at least use a stiff nylon brush (such as a tile floor setter uses) to remove all loose granulate on the area to be lapped. My seams are a minimum 12" if lapped over granulate with generously and well-placed cold-process.

For the chimney, flash as per usual but use a galvanized with at least 5" on the roof for good adhesion with the material.

finally, collect your check with confidence.

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T-Lock...My supplier planned on me using SA base directly on the plywood, then install metal edges & prime them....then SA Cap.

Wywoody....I am wondering why they didnt tell me to use the 3rd ply. Can you tell me the exact product you would use starting from plywood up?

Is this correct? plywood, base(SA or NAIL which would you use?), mid-ply(is it SA?) then cap.

How's my pricing?>>>

Yeah, what wywoody said , the warmer the better, are you using the sa base sheet also, or the nailed down? I'am not much of a flat guy myself but i have done a few of these my self. You will also need to prime all your metal. I sandwhich my metal between the base & cap sheet. I also use a 75# roller.

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