AG metal is God's gift to roofers

Did you know that you can basically hide your old shingle roof? I didn't either! That's what two different contractors around here have been doing.

I posted this to basically ask a question. I've finally accepted the reality that AG metal is going over houses, and I can see it working fairly decent EXCEPT these foam closures?? My manuf. is telling me that you just put the foam closures in at the bottoms/tops and it will be fine.

I'm planning on putting butyl tape on both sides of the closure to be sure. Is this a good thing?

I've tried looking at other guys roofs, but theirs normally doesn't have a drip edge at all, or just use foam closures.

Here's a pic of a roof that I had bid to tearoff & replace w/ shingles. Then they had metal put on one side of it about 1.5 years ago. Took the aluminum ridge vent off for 70' of the 143' and just screwed a 1x4 over it to hide the opening. I still can't believe that it wasn't pouring inside!

Frank: Very interesting. I bet that guy was floored when he found out the insulation had to be taken out! You box fold the AG panels??

Twill, they cut the roof all the way across, looked and d he had 'bad wood' with no other explanation. Slid some aluminum in the cut and left. No attempt to make any determination as to why. We talked tot he client and got the 'history' of the property, so to speak, to come to our conclusion, and solution.

OK. I just found the only pix I think I have of what you are questioning me about. 1920 house, original tin roof. Owner turned attic into a living space and insulated between the rafters. Rotted everything within 4 years of the conversion. :woohoo: :woohoo: The newer boards were installed by others in a botched repair.

He couldn't afford to replace everything from the sill plate up, so we stabilized what we had. We took our sheathing boards and drove all the insulation out of the rafter bays from the ridge. Cut the panels back till we got to 'usable' metal. Sistered the upper half of the rafters to hold things in place and resheathed. We added new panels as needed and added RV to the top. It's been 20+ years since our repair and going strong to this day.

Now, another example of condensation. Every winter, it seemed like my utility room would actually rain in the winter. Drove me nuts until two years ago, I found a rent in the dryer vent. Water running down the walls, etc, and really bad when ice damming. I replaced all those lines, and even have a plan for replacing most of the flex with solid pipe later. Thing is, it's 20 degrees, lot of snow on th eroof, with just finished her third load and no issues, even though there is NO I&W up there and the 3-tab roof is 27 years old. Every year, I plan on replacing it, but, but, but. You probably know how that is.

Not yet, We did have an issue on one once, until it was determined the builder was running a kerosene heater every day while building. He threw some plastic over the rafters and that ended.

Ah, Here's a another view of the ridge vent details.

I'm weird though. I end cleat the rear pans on Velux skylights on all my jobs so the pans, or counter-flashing can't shift, instead of driving a nail in the sides at the top.

At least the spec on "standing seam" isn't using foam.

I've seen your photos before of metal w/ no underlayment and have always wondered if you've ran into condensation problem.

I see that silly and stupid spec on standing seam too. :woohoo: I'll just keep on box-folding my panels.

Here's the back side/ underside view of how I continue to do it. Vented, like normal.

I do this even when using that crap or V-crimp on sheds.

That ridge has been like that for well over a year. I did some repairs on the shingle side of the roof & fascia that fixed their leaks. Every time I had been on the roof, I assumed they put the board there to block water from running under their new metal roof. NOT the case!