Insurance Question, Never Discussed This Viewpoint Before

37 1/2 sheets R & R should be compensated for correctly, which in my area is around $64.00 per sheet, with one very large entity at $128.00 per sheet.

Going over old decking seems very poor to me. That comment from you really surprises me, because I figured you did higher quality work.

I guess everyone is entitled to have an opinion on how things work best, but in my opinion, there is too great a chance of missing the rafters with the nailing pattern, even if lines are chalked vertically on the center of each rafter. What if they are slightly bowed?

Ed>>>

When I read about Florida requiring all structures to be re-nailed/ screwed, and hurricane plates applied to all trusses, and rafters, I knew this was just the beginning. Let the answers to that question be put onto a local building official/ inspector. Wording in a contract would be similar to any rotted wood contingency clause. Why removal of existing sheathing before new sheathing is applied is my real concern. I have no problem with adding 1/2 inch over an existing sheathing, as long as it's not rotted. And really...how long does it take? I have worked on many 7/16 osb sheathed ranch houses with trusses 24 inches OC and was afraid NOT to walk on the rafter. I'd bet 3 guys could sheath in a 12 sq ranch, if they're ready to work...in a couple of hours. It doesn't have to add thousands to this job....$240.00 material + labor. >>>

I will look at that NRCA article later, but it probably is one that I already have saved.

Ciak, yes I would advise any home owner that their decking may not be able to continue to have the proper holding strength required for keeping their new shingle roof in place.

The way that I look at the decking, is that I ask myself, will this decking be sound and functional for the 30 year duration of the shingle manufacturers warranty?

If the answer is no, then the home owner must be made aware of that condition in writing and come to their own conclusion as to what actions to take or not to take.

If the decking will not hold the nails per the properly required specified tolerances, how can the roof be warranted or guaranteed after that fact has been discovered and disclosed to them?

Ed>>>

This is also good information for the property adjusters . Cool>>>

I just found this NRCA article. It address Shingle Nail Pull Out Testing with Plywood and OSB.

http://docserver.nrca.net/pdfs/technical/8142.pdf >>>

This is another example of knowing how it works. Study the plywood industry particularly the glues used to bind the surfaces together and the processes it takes to make the plywood. I know for a fact that their is in MSB a section for spraying the plywood for Mildew prevention. Just another extra procedure that adds to the expense of doing a roof. It could be a battle getting the insurance company to pay for something that isn't in the norm ie replacing plywood because it has lost some of it's holding ability. It could be worth it. Good idea Ed. That being said ethically would you charge a H/O without insurance for the same procedure if no one else mentions it and your bid is that much higher ? For all the dribble and biatching the insurance money can be easy. I will check out some of the programs for the nail pull. This might get some of the structural engineers and scientist involved. Speaking of which .......I meet them today.>>>

Ed - I'm really thinking about nails in plywood decking. Seems like it would be a biggie if aged decking isn't as strong as new plywood. This could be a huge extra on almost every residential reroof project.>>>

I have an old pull tester that I owned for over 20 years already, but it is a very simple apparatus and does not seem to have been very expensive when I got it, but it was for screws on steel decks.

Talk to your screw supplier and see if they can hook you up with one for free.

Ed>>>

Hi Ed,

Should the deck be tested to ensure it is suitable for the purpose intended ?

I agree the deck should be able to hold the nails, will the insurance pay a second time round if the nails pull out ?>>>

Very good questions guys. I like where this is going. I would be interested in learning more about how to test existing decking to confirm that it meets a minimum pull out standard. Where would we get such information about testing equipment and standards? ASTM? APA?>>>

I have read that article before an have several other ones that comment about not getting back up to the same pull out resistance ratings, even after dried out.

My hypothetical question, is, during the course of installing a new roof, which depends dramatically on the nails holding power, that in the course of this roofing work being required, that the Nailable Decking criteria applies, especially when it could be verified and backed up with pull-out testing methods and tools?

Ed>>>

the link below is on roofing that was installed and the pull out test was performed on the nails after the sheathing absorbed moisture. My position would be....if the sheathing were now dry, and new shingles, and nails were being used, we are back to a dry deck.

http://www.westernroofing.net/Asphalt_OSB/Tippet%20-%20Fastener%20Pullout.pdf>>>