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Metal Screw Ups

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August 8, 2013 at 5:56 p.m.

tinner666

I keep preachiing not to cut the seams and leave them standing. And if you have too, extend them 1/2" to 3/4" past the drip edge. I've been finding these, but this is the first I took pix of. A new copper roof is in the future for these people.

In the first pic, you can see the tight metal has split the panel.

Mine are never cut, just folded and hemmed, and they extend 1/2" or more over the drip edge to give the roof some slack.

August 8, 2013 at 8:28 p.m.

clvr83

Oh like that, my mind wandered a totally different direction. Attributable to the anesthesia from earlier today maybe :laugh:

Yep that looks solid! Never done a copper and don't plan on it, but love the work you and copperman post.

August 8, 2013 at 7:13 p.m.

tinner666

If they're going to be cut, they need to be carried over a ways. This is a valley, but the detail is the same. That red line is where I 'set' the valley panels. Same if it was DE.

Found something. These also show that I move the first board out from the fascia. That 1/2" give the fascia more protection and a place for the rear of the gutter.

You can see how the seam is hemmed now. There is 1/2 gap between the hem and the dripedge.

August 8, 2013 at 6:58 p.m.

tinner666

Primed before hemming the SS flat. Then, the whole seam gets folded over and hemmed to the drip edge.

Ahh, Found it.

That bend is 1/2" or so past the DE. It all gets hemmed over.

August 8, 2013 at 6:25 p.m.

clvr83

Just to be clear, do you mean you hem to the drip edge w/ the panel but leave the seam protruding out a bit further?


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